Best things to do in Ubud: temples, rice terraces, monkeys and a day that works

Start early at the Tegallalang rice terraces, when the light is soft and the swing queues are shorter. Then head to Tirta Empul, a temple with a holy spring where visitors can take part in a purification ritual. Bring a sarong, which you can rent, and wear swimwear or clothes you do not mind getting wet.

Respect the ritual. The pools are for worshippers first, so follow your guide or the signs.

The Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary is a jungle with temples and hundreds of macaques. Keep food out of sight, leave sunglasses at the hotel and do not look the monkeys in the eye. After that, stroll through Ubud Palace and the art market, then eat at a local warung rather than a tourist café.

• ✔Campuhan Ridge Walk: a gentle walk along a grassy ridge, best at sunrise or late afternoon.
• ✔Tegenungan Waterfall: a quick stop with a swimming pool at the base.
• ✔Kanto Lampo waterfall: a more photogenic cascade over a stepped rock.

Ubud has nightly dance performances in temples and palace courtyards, including Legong and Barong dance. They are brief and atmospheric, and fine for any traveller. Book a table at a restaurant overlooking the rice fields for sunset.

Tirta Empul is a spring temple where Balinese Hindus come to purify themselves in the sacred pools. Visitors can take part, wearing a sarong and following the line of spouts. At each spout, you dip your head under the water and say a short prayer. Do not use the spouts reserved for funeral rituals, which are marked.

Take a change of clothes and a towel, and store valuables in a locker. Women are asked not to enter if menstruating, in line with local custom. A guide helps with the order and meaning. Whatever you do, treat the site as a place of worship first and a tourist attraction second.

Ubud has a huge range of places to stay, and choosing between the central area and the surrounding villages is the key decision. The centre is convenient but busy, while the villages give peace and scenery but need transport.

• ✔Warungs for nasi campur, babi guling (suckling pig) and fresh juices.
• ✔Cafés and health food spots along Jalan Hanoman and Jalan Raya Ubud.
• ✔Rice-field restaurants with views of terraces in the surrounding villages.
• ✔Boutique hotels and villas in Penestanan, Sayan and Tegallalang for quiet and views.
• ✔Guesthouses in the centre for walkability and low prices.

Ubud is now one of Bali's most visited places, and parts of it can feel crowded. Avoid the middle of the day at the Monkey Forest and Tegallalang, and try less-famous alternatives such as the Jatiluwih rice terraces, a UNESCO site, or Campuhan Ridge at dawn. Visit the Goa Gajah elephant cave and Gunung Kawi carved shrines early.

If you can, visit in the shoulder season, in May, June or September, when the weather is good and the crowds thinner. Our guide to the best time to visit Bali can help you plan, and the Bali budget guide will help you choose where to stay.

The town is walkable, but the sights are spread out, so you will want a driver or a scooter. A private driver for the day is common and affordable. For a deeper dive, join a cooking class or a village cycling tour. See our Bali guide, or compare with the Mount Batur trek and Nusa Penida.