Kyoto in 2 days: a route for temples, gardens and the geisha district

1. 1Sunrise: Fushimi Inari, before the crowds.
2. 2Mid-morning: Kiyomizu-dera and the old streets of Higashiyama.
3. 3Lunch: Nishiki Market, a covered food street.
4. 4Afternoon: the Gion district, to look for geiko and maiko at dusk.
5. 5Evening: dinner in Pontocho, along the river.

1. 1Early: Arashiyama's bamboo grove, before 8 am.
2. 2Morning: Tenryu-ji garden and the Togetsukyo Bridge.
3. 3Lunch: tofu cuisine in Arashiyama.
4. 4Afternoon: Kinkaku-ji, the Golden Pavilion.
5. 5Evening: a tea ceremony or a stroll along the Philosopher's Path.

Kyoto's buses are crowded, and the subway covers only two lines. The best approach is a combination of trains, buses, taxis for short hops and walking. A one-day bus pass can help, and rental bicycles are good in flatter areas. Plan around each area rather than zigzagging.

• ✔Late March to early April: cherry blossoms, with big crowds.
• ✔November: autumn colours, also very busy.
• ✔June: rainy season, quieter.
• ✔Winter: cold but peaceful, with snow on temples.

Kyoto cuisine is delicate and seasonal, with vegetables, tofu, pickles and fish. Try kaiseki, a multi-course meal, at least once, or yudofu, simmered tofu, at a temple restaurant. For a cheaper option, a set lunch is often much better value than dinner.

• ✔Nishiki Market: street snacks, pickles, tofu and skewers in a covered lane.
• ✔Pontocho Alley: riverside dining with a mix of casual and traditional restaurants.
• ✔Gion: refined kaiseki dinners, best booked in advance.
• ✔Arashiyama: tofu, yudofu and soba in a scenic setting.
• ✔Kyoto Station area: ramen street on the top floor of the station building.

Gion is a residential district, and geiko and maiko are working professionals, not tourist attractions. Do not chase or block them, touch their clothing or take photographs without permission. Some private lanes now have fines for photography. Be respectful, and consider attending a tea ceremony or a dance performance for a closer experience.

At temples and shrines, bow slightly at the gate, wash your hands at the purification fountain and speak softly. Remove your shoes where signs say so. In the Philosopher's Path and quiet lanes, keep noise down.

With a third day, add Nara for the deer, the Great Buddha and Kasuga Taisha, or Osaka for street food in Dotonbori and Osaka Castle. For a quieter day, visit Ohara, a mountain village with a mossy temple garden, or Kurama and Kibune, a forest hike between two villages.

If you plan to travel on to Tokyo, the bullet train takes about two hours and 15 minutes. See our Fushimi Inari guide, the Mount Fuji guide and the Kyoto guide.

A half-day trip to Nara, with its friendly deer and the giant Buddha at Todai-ji, fits easily. See the Fushimi Inari guide, the Kyoto guide and our Mount Fuji day trip.